Seattle, Washington
Seattle sits between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, with the Cascades to the east and the Olympics to the west, and on a clear day the mountains seem to float over the skyline. The city is known for coffee, rain, and a culture of tech and music, but its heart is a working waterfront and a public market that has been feeding people for more than a century.
Traveling alone here is easy. Seattle is a city of readers, hikers, and commuters, and a single traveler at a coffee counter, a fish stand, or a ferry rail is the most ordinary sight in town. The rain is lighter than its reputation, and when it clears, the view is worth the wait.
Read through once before you go. Day One covers Pike Place Market, the waterfront, and Pioneer Square's Underground. Day Two covers Seattle Center, the ferry to Bainbridge Island, and Capitol Hill. Section 03 is the new-for-2027 story of the Seattle Underground. Bring a light waterproof jacket; layers beat an umbrella here.
“A single traveler at a coffee counter, a fish stand, or a ferry rail is the most ordinary sight in town.”
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The Seattle Underground
On June 6, 1889, a fire that started in a carpentry shop destroyed much of the city's downtown. When Seattle rebuilt, it regraded its streets, filling them with soil and raising them about 12 feet, and in places nearly 30 feet. The old ground-floor storefronts were left below, and sidewalks were built on top.
Seattle's downtown was built on tidal flats, and its sewers backed up at high tide. After the fire, the city used the rebuild to fix the problem by raising the streets above the flood level.
Only a small part of the underground has been restored for visitors. Look for the small glass skylights, called vault lights, that are still set into some Pioneer Square sidewalks.
Guided tours run from Pioneer Square. Bill Speidel's Underground Tour has operated since 1965, and other companies offer themed tours. Book ahead, and wear shoes with grip.
Where to Eat in Seattle
Prices are typical per person, excluding drinks and tip.
Know Your Neighborhoods
Is Seattle Safe?
Safe in most visitor areas, with standard city awareness. Pike Place, the waterfront, Capitol Hill, and Ballard are busy and lively. Some downtown blocks, including parts of Third Avenue and areas of Pioneer Square, can feel rougher, especially at night. The main risks are car break-ins and petty theft.
Street sellers and petitioners may approach you downtown. Decline politely and keep walking. Never leave valuables visible in a parked car.
Harborview Medical Center is the major trauma hospital downtown. Carry a light jacket, and pack travel insurance.
Share your plan with someone back home, keep your phone charged, and use rideshare late at night. Stay on busy, lit streets after dark.
When to Go
Getting Around
Seattle is hilly and spread out, but the central neighborhoods are linked by light rail, buses, and ferries.
Seattle's hills are steep. Plan to use buses or rail for uphill routes, and wear shoes with grip.
Good to Know
Layers beat umbrellas. Seattleites carry a light waterproof jacket and keep walking.
Go to Pike Place early. Most of the crowds arrive by mid-morning.
Book the Underground tour ahead, and wear shoes with grip on the stairs.
The best views come on clear days. Check the forecast and take a ferry or visit Kerry Park when it is clear.
Tip 18–20% in restaurants. Sales tax is added at the register.
Never leave valuables visible in a parked car. Break-ins are a common problem.